We chatted with a minister to further learn more about the country. Apparently, weed was considered a hard drug here. I also learned that people don’t really hike here even though there are beautiful lush mountains surrounding them. He explained they don’t make time for that because people are always working on the farm or in the markets. Last thing I learned was that men often cheated on their wives.
“Dey can’t even manage der own household and dey still have two or three wives,” he said. “Da wives accept that polyamory is just da way it is here. Da only ones who don’t cheat ah da ones who ah devout Christian men or men who have healthy principals dat dey live by.”
Yesterday we arrived at Kpango, our bodies sore and our minds lethargic. I felt excited to detour towards the waterfalls in hopes of experiencing some green mountains and rural roads, but the moment we arrived in town, Dubu expressed he was having a lot of difficulties on his knees and shins. He asked if I would be open to leaving our bikes in town and getting a ride there, instead. I suddenly felt down that plans were involving less and less cycling. Simultaneously, I knew what it felt like to be in physical pain and frustrated by the perception of needing to stop. I said okay.
We got a taxi then were dropped off at the reception where we had to sign up for a tour guide.
“What hike would you like to do?” the receptionist asked.
I read the list that was on the wall. “Am I allowed to do the Upper Falls Ridge?” It was the longest one of all and I was warned that the Bright Angel trail in the Grand Canyon was a piece of cake in comparison. It didn’t scare me, plus I was ready to experience hiking again. I longed to feel my feet grounding into some dirt and my hands grabbing onto some rocks.
In the log book I noticed the last recent person who signed was from the Netherlands. I turned around to tell Dubu and saw a tall white guy standing right behind him.
“Are you from the Netherlands?!” I asked.
“That’s me,” he said.
His name was Adrianus and he was also doing the long strenuous hike.
“When are you going?” I asked.
“Right now,” he said. “Want to join me?”
I said fuck it then switched into my hiking shoes and gave Dubu a hug goodbye. It could not have been better timed.
Our guide was young and had knock off Adidas slippers on. All the while, I had a $200 pair of comfortable hiking shoes on. He was faster than both of us and it seemed as if he didn’t really want to be there, often giving us looks of frustration when we stopped to take pictures, let alone catch our breath.
The trek was steep as we made our way up to the ridgeline, then we walked through burn areas. I forgot how difficult hiking was in comparison to cycling. Immediately, I felt as if I was actually getting exercise again. We meandered through jungle trees, canopies of palm leaves and thick wooden vines. We passed through boulders and I gripped onto them here and there to reminisce of what it felt like to climb.
We arrived at the Upper Falls and I asked my tour guide if I was allowed to go skinny dipping. He didn’t care, I’m sure he’s seen it before. Adrianus and I tried being cute by running towards the waterfall but it was way too cold and windy. We ended up just laughing a lot as we tried to count to three and go under the water.
Afterwards, we connected with Dubu at the Lower Falls. There were thousands of bats flying around in the mist, thousands others perched on the cliff face. On our way back to the lodge, Dubu pointed out a shop that was selling sculptures of big black cocks. I bought one for my mother.